Travel Buddies Head Home

June 3rd, 2017 – Frankfurt & Miltenberg, Germany

Today was kind of a sad day for all of us. Our travel buddies for the past 3 weeks, Trent and Carolyn Ballard were heading home. It’s hard to believe that some 7 months ago we tossed out the idea of going to Italy and Germany and we off-handedly asked them if they wanted to come along, and to our pleasure, they said “Yes!”. My Brother Trent and his wife are both younger than Elisa and I – by quite a bit and we weren’t sure we could keep up with them. Fortunately they were even more out of shape than we were. We all did fine on this trip. We would consistently walk between 5 and 12 miles per day and up and down countless steps.

With the 2 of them heading back home I thought I would recap the highlights and locations of our trip that started 3 weeks ago. Hopefully, they can use this to fill in some of their highlights along the way.

Rome – We landed in Rome and spent 2 action packed days in Rome. On our first day, right after we landed at about 11:00 AM local time, we promptly put in about 12 miles of walking seeing some of Rome’s most famous sites in the central part of the city. Our objective was to tucker ourselves out so we would hopefully sleep through the night and get over our jet lag. It didn’t work – we were plenty tired but we all woke up in the early morning hours. The next day we saw the Vatican and the Colosseum and Forum with our lovely guide Roberta. She made Rome special for us. We arranged for her through Rome Tours by Rudy – they get 5 stars from us.

Positano – We then headed down the Amalfi Coast to Positano. The ride into the seaside town is breathtaking, and so were our accommodations. We highly recommend Residence Alcone – ask for the room with the large balcony. Although, we were the center of a couple of international incidents that helped us coin the term “International Eye-roll” we had a great time there. Our dinner at La Tagliata was very special and again, we recommend it if you find yourself traveling to Positano or any other towns along the Amalfi Coast.

Pompeii – We did a day trip out to Pompeii and arranged another excellent private tour with Claudia. We enjoyed our previous visits when we tried the self guided tour, but with Claudia we learned so much more this time around.

Isle of Capri – We did another day trip out to Capri taking a morning ferry and returning in the early evening. The boat ride out was pleasant, but Trent injured his left arm and shoulder when he slipped coming down some steep steps on the boat. The injury would bother him for the rest of the trip – I still think he was trying to avoid having to carry Carolyn’s closet sized suitcase that we lovingly named “Moby” – like the whale – you know the one I’m talking about – yes that one, only that one was a little smaller than the suitcase. Anyhow, Capri was nice but not as nice as Positano and we were happy to be heading back to our amazing rooms and the town of Positano.

Siena – After our stay along the Amalfi we headed up toward Tuscany. It was a long drive, but Elisa had booked us a very nice hotel for our 1 night there at the Hotel Garden. It is just outside the gates to the old walled city and an easy walk to the Campo. We had some amazing food all along the way, but our dinner in Sienna was special – we ate at Trattoria Fonte Dei Giusto. It was very good.

Colle Val d’Elsa – we took a side trip to this little town in a valley nestled in the heart of Tuscany very near Siena and San Gimignano. While there, Trent and Carolyn had their first real Italian cultural experience. We met with some of Elisa’s relatives. Although Trent and Carolyn spoke no Italian and the relatives no English, a family bond was struck and Trent and Carolyn felt the warm embrace of Italian “Parenti” relatives.

Casole d’Elsa – We went to yet another hill town in the heart of Tuscany, again to visit with some of Elisa’s relatives. Once again, the gathering was warm and welcoming. We hated that it was only such a short visit.

Venturina – We went to this small Tuscan town that sits near the Mediterranean Sea. It is located about 70 miles south of Pisa, of leaning tower fame. Here we would make a home base in Tuscany for 6 days. We are staying at a hillside residence apartment – Poggio Aprico. Our host there is friends with Elisa’s cousin Gianni. We have the entire place to ourselves as it is still a bit early in the Holiday season. Our apartments are built into an ancient converted farm house. The views are amazing and the hospitality warm. From here we will combine visits of many Tuscan cities and towns while spending time with Elisa’s relatives.

Suvereto – This is a tiny hill town just outside of Venturina. It is here that another of Elisa’s cousins will be getting married. The ceremony takes place in the same church where Elisa’s Mom & Dad got married back around 1955. We meet with several other relatives of Elisa’s that live here. Trent and Carolyn are able to join us for a really special and unique Italian wedding and reception. All held in this quaint “story book” hillside town.

Barratti and Popolonia – these are two small towns along the coast of Tuscany that are noted for ancient Etruscan ruins. Trent and Carolyn are taken there by Elisa’s cousin Gianni while we visit with Elisa’a Uncle Giuseppe and Aunt Vivianna.

Florence – We took a day trip up to Florence, mainly to visit with some of Elisa’s other relatives – cousins Andrea and his fiance and also with Elisa’s cousin Pietro. It is very warm in Florence on this day and we barely can make our way through the hordes of tourists. In spite of the heat and the crowds we do take in many of Florence’s sites, but for the most part we find ourselves missing the relative quiet of the small Tuscan hill towns.

Volterra & SanGimgnano – We took another day trip up to these hill towns. San Gimignano is certainly the more famous of the two but we all enjoyed Volterra the most. The streets were less crowded and there were fewer tourists there. The city is built atop ancient Roman ruins and it is filled with great shops and cafes. Our visit to San Gimignano is made special because we meet and have a great lunch with Elisa’s cousins Roberto and Martine along with their daughter Sabrina and husband Massimo and cute granddaughter Margo. It is great catching up with them all.

Lugliano & and Lucca – We took another day trip here in Tuscany, primarily on a search of some of Carolyn’s family roots. She had information that we could use to find the town and home of her Great Grandfather. While we are there and with Elisa’s help translating English into Italian, we are able to find an actual relative that still lives in the town of Lugliano. From there we visited Lucca, the famous walled city of Tuscany and stroll along Via del Bastardo – how would you like have to address your envelopes with that one?.

LaSpezia – We leave Tuscany and are headed for the Cinque Terre. We use the town of La Spezia as our home base. While here we all take a really fun and tasty private cooking lesson with Chef Sylvia in her restaurant Osteria del Corte. We all really enjoyed this and we again heartily recommend this activity. Our accommodations are at B&B Gateway Cinque Terre. It is set in a renovated portion of a very old apartment building. Our initial impressions of the place are a little suspect because of it sharing space with residential apartments, but our host there has done a very nice job renovating 5 rooms into the space. The location is very good near the main pedestrian corridor of La Spezia and very close to the train station.

Cinque Terra – the cities of Riomaggiore, Monterosso, Corniglia, Manarola and Vernazza. Elisa and I visit only Riomaggiore and Manarola. Carolyn and Trent hit all of them except Corniglia. We come away from Cinque Terre somewhat disappointed. It is a victim of its own success. Each little city is now over run with tourists, the merchandise in the shops is not very good and aimed at the tourist trade. The views are amazing but the crowds were difficult to contend with.

Porto Venere – on the recommendation of Chef Sylvia’s husband we visit the tiny town of Porto Venere, which sits out on a point of land that actually looks back at the 5 towns of Cinque Terre. We fall in love with this little town. It seems to be a little secret – there are very few tourists and it seems to be where locals from La Spezia and Cinque Terre come to get away from it all. We have another amazing dinner at the Royal Sporting Hotel in Porto Venere. We have a wonderful table that gives us a sweeping view of the water.

Bellagio – from La Spezia we head to Lake Como where we will Be staying at a small hotel right in the heart of the little town of Bellagio. Once again the ride into Bellagio is a bit breathtaking – both because of the views and the narrowness of the roads. To get to out hotel we have to wind our way down a tiny pedestrian filled street, only to emerge lakeside at our hotel.

Verona – From Como we are headed to Venice, but before we get there we spend time in the city of Verona. This city and its neighboring city of Venice were immortalized by William Shakespere through his retelling of the tale of Romeo and Juliet and the play Merchant of Venice. Elisa and I last visited Verona over 10 years ago and at that time, it really wasn’t on the map of most tourists. We remember viewing the balcony of Juliet and having the courtyard largely to ourselves. Similarly, the walks to the other key sites in Verona were easy strolls. Not so this time. Juliet’s balcony is swarmed with tourists from every country and of all ages. It is all we can do to make our way in. Now, there are swanky pedestrian streets crisscrossing the ancient parts of the city bringing “Rodeo Drive” to Verona. It is still a nice detour on our way to Venice.

Venice. We are spending 3 days and 2 nights in Venice. Getting into Venice is always the hard part when you are touring Italy by car. You have to park your car at either Tronchetto or the nearer Piazzale Roma. We try Piazzale Roma first hoping to find close parking that will get us into Venice more quickly. It turns out to be a bad choice because the garages are full and we must make our way back to Tronchetto. It takes us over an hour to park and get to our tiny apartment. The effort was really worth it. Although Venice is also very crowded with several cruise ships in port, it is so unique and special for Trent and Carolyn who have never traveled to Italy before.

Innsbruck, Austria – After 3 great days in Venice we are heading out of Italy now and making our way to Germany. Before we get there we will first stop for lunch in Innsbruck, Austria. We get our first taste of German cuisine and we receive efficient although curt service from “Frau Grumpy Pants” as we came to call our waitress. We are all having trouble changing gears from Italian to German – especially when trying to speak. We get by and have great lunch and spend a little time in the Altstadt – Old City.

Grainau, Germany – From Innsbruck we head over the Brenner Pass into Germany. We will be spending 3 days in this tiny town just outside of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. We absolutely loved our accommodations there. Easily the best we’ve had on this trip. We are staying at Ferienwohnung – Zugspitze. Our host Carolin has done a wonderful with this place. There are 5 apartments purpose built into a traditional Bavarian style home. We occupy one of the 2 apartments on the lower floors. The apartment occupies the ground floor and a basement where there is a private bedroom and bathroom. Everything is so well done and not a single thing has been forgotten. We have everything we need to stay for a month and we are sorry we will only be there for 3 nights.

Fussen & Schwangau & Linderhoff – We take a day trip of castle touring. We see the fairy tale castle Neuschwanstein and King Ludwig’s family home Hohenschwangau. The horse ride up the mountain and the views from Castle Neuschwanstein are stunning. We then head over to Ludwig’s bachelor pad – Linderhoff castle. Seeing these castles really sets the mood for us here in the Bavarian Alps.

Oberamergau – While touring the Ludwig castles we also head into Oberamergau where the girls do some shopping for Christmas ornaments. This town is famous for the holding of the Passion Play once every 10 years at Christmas time. The play tells the story of Jesus and all the parts in the play are played by local townspeople.

Eibsee & Zugspitze Peak – Trent and Carolyn head up to the top of the Zugspitze peak ticking off 2 more modes of transportation on this trip – they ride the Cog wheel railroad part way up the mountain and then take the gondola ski lift to the top. While up there, the strangest thing happens to them. They meet “Fonzi”, Henry Winkler. He is on site at the top of the mountain filming an episode to his series “Better Late then Never”. He is a great guy and takes photos with Trent and Carolyn.

Garmisch – Partinkirchen – we cruise through the streets of this tiny town and see all the traditionally painted Bavarian homes and shops. We also head to the Ski Stadium from the 1936 Olympics that are still in use today.

Rothenberg – As we make our way out of Bavaria, we make one last stop and that is to the city of Rothenberg. This city is one of the best preserved medieval walled cities in Germany. We have a great lunch there and explore the city. The city is also known for Bavarian Cuckoo clocks and Elisa and I go cuckoo for Cckoo’s. We find one we like and make arrangements to have it shipped to us in the US.

Rossdorf, Germany – from Rothenberg we make our way north out of Bavaria heading for the outskirts of Frankfurt. The towns are quite different here, it is clear we are near the commercial and industrial heart of Germany. The town where we are staying makes no effort to draw tourists. It is a suburb of Darmstadt and larger Frankfurt. We’ve chosen this location because it will be close to Frankfurt Airport where Trent and Carolyn will be departing as will we in a few more days. However, our location does serve as a good hub for visiting nearby Heidelberg and many of the older and more quaint towns along the Rhine river. However, Trent and Carolyn will miss most of those as they will spend their last full day in Europe taking another day trip.

Worms, Germany &the Strasbourg, France – On their last day in Europe, we head to Strasbourg. This allows Trent and Carolyn to tick another country off the list for their vacation. More importantly, it gives Trent and I an opportunity to revisit places that were special to us when we both lived here 47 years ago with our parents. Our first stop is to the small town of Worms that sits on the banks of the Rhine River. We drive by our old house at 8 Keplerstrasse and to our surprise we see that the home next door is still home to our neighbors back then – the Koegler’s We then head into Strasbourg, France. Our prime objective is to find the Kammerzell Haus as the Germans call it or Maison Kammerzell as the French all it, where we had many an amazing meal when we were growing up. We succeed in finding the place and we have an excellent meal that does not let our memories of the place down. We then spend time walking through the old part of Strasbourg. We are totally taken in by the Cathedral there and spend a great deal of time marveling at the construction, the stained glass , the art and also the amazing celestial computer clock – built in 1845.

Frankfurt Airport – This ends Trent and Carolyn’s part of the trip. This morning we drop them off at the huge Frankfurt Airport and they are making there way back home to California.

We were all so blessed on this trip. There were so many fortuitous events, starting with Trent miraculously managing to get his ticket straightened out at the last minute before we departed on the trip. The United customer service rep was named Minerva (Roman Goddess of Hope) and Minerva was constantly with us. Invariably we would pull into a location and the people would tell us, “good thing you weren’t here a day ago – the weather was horrible – cold and rainy”. We had good weather all the way. We may have complained about heat, but Elisa and I have been here in August before – trust me we did not have an “hot” weather. We consistently missed the rain. Minerva would make parking spaces appear out of nowhere when we would need it the most.

Most importantly, we were blessed with each other’s company. The trip was a really special bonding moment with 2 brothers who have been separated by time and distance for too long and there wives. We would tease each other mercilessly during the trip, especially poor Carolyn and her suitcase “Moby”, but it was always in good fun. (Really, we love Moby) When you will be spending 3 weeks traveling with people, even those that you know well or are related to, it is difficult to get along 100% of the time. But we did – (or if we didn’t I’m sure they won’t tell us). So, it helps if everyone is compatible and we all were. Trent is so funny and he kept us all lighthearted and Carolyn is so sweet and she worked so hard on our accommodations – plus she and Elisa made great “shopping buddies”, something neither Trent nor I are really excited about doing. Instead we would find a shady cafe and have a few apertivos. I’m sure it made for better shopping for Elisa and Carolyn as well. We would travel over 2200 miles by car and we never got on each other’s nerves – except when Trent would “sleep drive”. Consequently, we didn’t let him do a lot of the driving, but he did enough to give me a break.

What a great trip we had. We can’t wait to do another trip together.

Ciao, “Trentino Limone” and “Carolina Proscuitto” as they have been lovingly named.

After Elisa and I dropped Trent and Carolyn off we did make a day trip out to Miltenberg on the Rhine River. I’ll write about that in another post.