May 21, 2017 – Florence, Italy
It was a late night and some of us were up until past 1:00AM after attending the Italian Wedding. Regrettably, these “old folks” can’t keep up with the “party hearty” spirit of our Italian counterparts. By 11:30 pm they were just cutting the cake and the spectacle and dancing would not commence until after mid-night. We would have loved to stay but we had an early morning on the 21st. We did see video and photos that all of the party-goers shared and it looked like quite a show.
On this day, we would plan to drive to Firenze (Florence), the very heart of the Italian renaissance and Tuscany. It is approximately at 1:40 minute drive to Florence. Once we reach the Super-Strada we speed along at 140km/h, but once we get to the road that goes into Florence we cruise along at a very moderate 90 Km/h. The entire way is lined with speed cameras. It is all part of a government effort to reduce pollution in and around Florence. It is painful for the Italians to drive at this slow speed, but we must lest we be fined. Coincidentally, the speed cameras have proved to be quite a revenue generator for the community.
Our goal this day is to not only see some of the sites of Florence but to visit with Elisa’s cousin Andrea and his fiancé Katyusha. Finding parking inside of Florence is an absolute nightmare. So we have made arrangements for Andrea to meet us outside of the city so that he can lead us to a place where he is certain we will find parking. The short drive into the old walled city is quite exciting. The street are narrow, the cars are many and once again the scooters buzz around us like gnats. Andrea is successful, we find parking for our vehicles. We have 2 vehicles for this trip to accommodate the number of people. We find parking near the river Arno and it will be about a 2 mile walk to the Duomo and the trip will take us past the Pitti Palace and over the Ponte Vecchio. However, before we make the trek, Elisa decides that since it is close to lunch time she would like get a quick and light lunch. We’ve learned that these adjectives do not usually accompany any meal here in Italy.
We find a nice little trattoria – Something – Antica. So, by “quick”, that means that our antipasti, pasta and mains will all be delivered at the same time. By “light” that means that some of us are going to dispense with desert and others will only have a pasta dish and others may only have a “Seconda Piatti”. In any event, we are once again swimming in food that is delicious and overwhelming at the same time. By quick and light, that means that instead of a 2 – 3 hour lunch we will only have a 1-½ hour lunch. Once again, it is amazing.
Today, unlike our visit a couple of days ago to Siena, Florence is quite crowded with tourists. We make the walk into the center of the historic city window shopping and taking pictures of all the most famous sites along the way. However, due to the size of the crowds and the fact that we are mainly here to connect with relatives whom we haven’t seen in awhile. I’m worried for Carolyn and Trent because they have never been to Florence before, but the are content to listen to our relatives tell us about all the sites we are seeing. We are making our way toward the front of the Duomo so that we can also meet up with another of Elisa’s cousins, Gian-Pietro (or Pietro as we all call him). Pietro Sabatini is well know musician and artist in Italy and we haven’t seen him since 2009. Wading through the crowds at the Duomo we easily find Pietro. We talk there in the busy square and we catch up. We learn that he can not stay with us long as his partner Patrizia is recovering from a compound fracture of her ankle and she is immobile. We have enough time to find a rooftop cafe/bar near the Duomo.
Carolyn is thrilled because the cafe is above a very chic and modern multi-story department store. She decides that she will go shopping while we all catch up with one another. In the mean time Trent will take the opportunity to explore the sites around the area. The weather in Florence on this day is warm but not oppressively hot like it can sometimes get. The temperature is near 80 degrees F, but there is a nice breeze blowing. After a couple of hours Carolyn has rejoined us, somewhat disappointed with her shopping excursion. Apparently, the department store we are in is a virtual replica of a Macy’s back home in the states. Most of the brands are the same one we have in the states, Coach, Michael Kors, etc. If she’s going to purchase anything in Italy she wants it to have a name brand that she can barely pronounce. We decide to head back down to the streets and track down Trent.
Once we are all together again, there is a animated discussion, which is the only type if Italian discussion possible. We discuss whether we want to see more of the site or do more shopping. I don’t recall either Trent or I getting a vote on the matter – but somehow we find ourselves heading toward the San Lorenzo area where the Florentine leather shops are. Elisa finds a jacket for Krista and makes the selection. As she is about to proceed with the transaction, the salesman maneuver’s Elisa towards a striking white leather jacket. He gets her to try it on. She isn’t too sure about white but everyone is oohing and aching over how good it looks on Elisa. She still isn’t too sure. The tells Elisa that this is the finest leather it is so durably finished. He gets her to extend her arm and promptly waves a large flame over the leather from a lighter, “see no damage” he says. Then he douses her with water from a bottle – seems to me that the steps fire and water steps should have been reversed. Still not quite convinced, he then takes some oily hand lotion and promptly squirts it the sleeve of the jacket and shows her that it does not stain. Finally, she complains that the sleeves are too long, “no problem, we alter it for you – while you wait”, says the salesman. By now, Elisa is sashaying around the store – looking pretty good in her white leather jacket. I immediately know it’s a done deal. I do not complain, because the prices are very good. The 2 jackets will cost less than what 1 of them would have cost in the states. He tells us to go for a walk while he alters the jacket.
In the mean time, Carolyn is looking for a purse in a light pink. She finally finds something she likes and at only 50Euro it looks like a bargain. Elisa’s cousin Rosella and Dorella decide to help Carolyn out. They inspect the purse and tell the shop owner that Carolyn will only pay 25 Euro. After some animated discussion – refer back to the paragraph above – all discussions in Italian are animated- a price is mutually agreed and Carolyn hands over 35 euro for a lovely purse. At such a low price, she is certain that the only thing that may be “Pure Leather” may be the leather tag attached to the purse. Nevertheless, it is quite fashionable. While Rosella and Dorella were off helping Carolyn with her transaction, While Carolyn’s transaction was going on, Elisa was paying for her 2 jackets. When Rosella and Dorella see her with her 2 packages they immediately ask her – “did you get them to come down with the price – did you get a good deal”. Elisa sheepishly said no, explaining that they altered if for her. She immediately got the “international eye-roll” from both her cousins.
By now, Pietro had to leave us and it is nearing 7:00pm. We quickly make a decision that rather than drive back right now, we should find someplace to have dinner. Andrea’s fiancée, who was visiting Rome, is now back in town and she joins us as we cross back over the Arno. As we head back toward our car we find Borgo del’Orto a 5 star rated Trattoria. We have a large table to accommodate all of us that sits in the rear of an outdoor garden area which is hidden behind the restaurant. You would have no idea that its back there. At 7:30pm it is still a bit early for the dinner crowd and we have the place a largely to ourselves. The food is worthy of its 5 star rating. Her are some of the dishes we have at the table.
Antipasti – by now, the3 out of the 4 of us in our group have come to realize that we stopped being hungry about 2 days ago. In spite of this, Carolyn can not contain her enthusiasm for Italian cuisine and she order a small piatti of prosciutto de Parma with Melon. It comes to her overflowing her plate. She immediately is both excited – at the beautiful mounds of prosciutto but also worried about how she will eat it all. For now she sets the latter concern behind knowing that she will bypass the pasta dish.
Prima Piatti – Pasta. By now, 3 of the 4 of us in our group realize we stopped being hungry days ago. Nevertheless, Trent orders a “small” plate of spaghetti Bolognaise. The rest of us have skipped the pasta moving right to the Seconda. Trent takes one bite of the spaghetti and immediately declares it the best meat sauce he’s ever had. Somehow, he manages to eat it all.
Seconda Piatti – Mains. By now Trent and Carolyn are both stuffed and not sure where they will put their main courses. Elisa and I are content as our mains are served. Elisa is having the fried chicken with potatoes and vegetables. I am having the Pappardelle con Chingiale. As side dishes we have some fried vegetables of zucchini and egg plant. Delicious! Trent is having sliced beef strips served atop arugula but it could have been chicory. The greens were a bit on the bitter side but with the heat and juices of the steak they wilted a bit and accompanied the beef quite nicely. Carolyn’s main course arrives and everyone is eying it. It is a beautifully prepared pork shank that has been smoked in a wood oven with potatoes that are to die for. There is enough pork on that shank to feed the entire table. Carolyn make a valiant effort to eat it all but there is just too much and she is generously handing out samples to everyone at our table and is also contemplating sharing it with other patrons in the restaurant as she will feel bad to leave so much on her plate. Did I mention that the potatoes were amazing.
Dolce – desert. By now 3 or 4 of us in our group realize that we stopped being hungry days ago. Trent, Carolyn and Elisa all decide to skip desert. I on the other hand can’t say no the the sorbetto Limone. It is as good as usual. However, Trent decides to have his very first Italian caffe espresso. Fortunately, there is sufficient room left in the small demitasse for him to add sugar – lots of it. He seemed to like it but we are worried he will be up much of the night.
We make our way from the restaurant, say our good byes to Andrea and his fiancée and we make our way home. Once again we are reveling in what we think is the best meal we’ve had sine our trip began.
Ciao Tutti and Buona Notte!
More later
Comments